Northern Fiordland trip report – Robyn Owen, Sue Blair, Jan Littleton, Russell Schofield, Bob Wright, Mel Walsh, Colin Laws, Katherine McCusker
30th Nov Day One Dusky Sound
OMG !!!
Breathtaking is the only way to describe the helicopter flight from Te Anau airport to the helipad on Flightless. Twelve club members and replacement crew were flown over the mountain ranges west of Lake Manapouri to reach Shark Cove in Dusky Sound. A safety briefing and wish list request was had after the first of many outstandingly delicious meals. Over the afternoon we visited Indian Island and it’s Waka Point where on the 6th April 1773, the first contact was made between Captain Cook and crew (Europeans) and takata whenua. Dolphins were spotted on our way out to the Dusky Sound heads for a spot of successful fishing. Calm conditions were perfect for an evening IRB tour around the Many Islands sighting seals, Tawaki (Fiordland Crested Penguin) flowering Rata and a sunset. The wish list almost ticked off by the end of Day one!!
Sunday 1st Dec Day Two
5.15am start to enjoy the “Dawn Chorus”, it was truly beautiful. Kaka, yellowhead, saddleback, robin, tomtit, bellbird, long tail cuckoo, penguins and seals were heard. A quick dip was on the agenda for some, breakfast for others. Next the kayaks were in use, as was a tender. We all ventured around the shorelines of the Many Islands group seeing seals, saddlebacks, Fiordland crested penguins, rata and tree daisies. The low cloud around the Mainland peaks and Fingers of God rays coming through and highlighting the water was stunning. Back on board we motored to the open sea to do a spot of fishing. On the way we were entertained by four Fiordland crested penguins performing their morning ablutions. Mel, Bob, Colin, Jan and Robyn were all successful and landed cod, terakihi, and trumpeter. Heading back into Dusky Sound the gulls and mollymawks followed us in anticipation of the fish leftovers after they were filleted. The birds weren’t disappointed and some of us were entertained with their antics. We motored through the gap between Crayfish Island and the Mainland.
We anchored in Pickersgill Harbour and went onshore to see where Cook anchored and did repairs to his boat. We had a history lesson from Charlotte about Astronomer Pt. We all tasted Spruce Beer, a similar recipe to that which Cook’s men used at the first brewery in N.Z. established near Cook stream. Slipper and Hooded orchids were a great find too. Back on board Flightless we headed up the Bowen Channel, where we were over awed and outsized by Ovation of the Seas, a HUGE cruise ship (to me it was more like an apartment block on steroids) heading out to open water. Definitely prefer Flightless. Acheron Passage was next and then into Breaksea Sound, the weather and sea conditions were still good so we headed into open water for four hours to Doubtful Sound. On the way we saw Mollymawk, petrel, two Humpback whales (mother and calf).The colours of the bush-clad coastline, the patterns, colours and textures of the rocks were awesome. We entered Doubtful Sound about 7.30pm, passing the Sheltered Islands and checked out the south side of Secretary Island for Fiordland crested penguins which we sighted as well as a weka. Tea: freshly caught, battered cod with salads. Lovely evening light as we motored up Doubtful Sound to end our day at the top end of Crooked Arm dropping anchor at 10.30pm. Wow! what a day.
2nd Dec Crooked Arm, Doubtful Sound
We woke to discover that we had moored in Haulashore Cove at the head of Crooked Arm, Doubtful Sound. This was a surprise to us as we’d motored into the night after dinner yesterday.
Those who were keen were ferried to a very sticky muddy shore at low tide. Here we walked/scrambled about 900m up and over a semi marked track across Narrow Neck to Dagg Sound. Dagg Sound is another beautiful Sound, rocks lined with yellow algae visible because of low tide and forested to the waters edge. We also heard Tui here which was new to Rusty, our guide.
Back onboard Flightless we motored to Bradshaw Sound, still in the Doubtful Sound system, mooring at Shoal Cove for another trip out in the tenders, this time up the Camelot River for a picnic lunch. Camelot River is a beautiful intimate river, crystal clear water forested on either side with rata, rimu, beech and ponga trees, dripping with mosses, lichen and other epiphytes, all shades of green imaginable.
Our final mooring for Flightless on day 3 was in Precipice Cove, a spot with 2 other vessels sheltering from the forecast wind overnight. After dinner we explored the shoreline by tenders, slowly motoring past rock and algae exposed at low tide revealing glorious shades of white to grey to black and orange to yellow and green.
3rd Dec Precipice Cove- Bradshaw Sound to Gold Arm-Charles Sound
We woke to a gentle Fiordland rain and went to retrieve a craypot from Bradshaw Sound, which contained one crayfish. The rain intensified into a ‘Fiordland shower’, creating some very spectacular waterfalls. Some team members engaged in the sport of waterfall dunking. After a magnificent lunch we cruised around enjoying the magnificent displays of Rata and visiting even more waterfalls on the way to the coast, for a bumpy trip up to Charles Sound, where we anchored for the night in Gold Arm near Catherine Island.
4th Dec Charles Sound
The day started fine anchored at the end of Gold Arm in Charles Sound. Both tenders venturing out loaded with the six intrepid teams each at about 7.30. I was in Pepper initially exploring the small (Fanny and Catherine) islands that protected the anchorage from the north and went on to explore the coast line and ventured ashore with James to get a better view of large waterfall on the western side. The waterfall discharge into the Sound was obstructed by large boulders so a little bit of mountaineering 30 metres up a lovely mossy section of the steep sound wall achieved a better although not perfect view.
In the afternoon Flightless moved to Emelius Arm to explore the Irene River. Both tenders departed to for the river cruise in light rain that developed into heavy persistent rain causing the river to rise. This allowed access via a short side branch to the base of the spectacular towering Marjorie falls. Two of our crew landed and ventured to the spray laden area at base of the fall. Only able to photograph from a distance. Most of the other crew from the other tender that had now joined us landed to experience the power of the increased volume of water in the fall. Both boats returned to Flightless about 5.30 with very wet passengers and we relocated back to Gold Arm for the evening meal and anchor for the night. By that time all the waterfalls in Charles Sound were at full spectacular stream and access to the one we had landed at in the morning was now impossible due to the increased volume of water from the heavy rain.
The weather and resulting scene that day in Charles Sound certainly ticked my objective box.
5th Dec Emelius Arm – Caswell Sound – George Sound
Irene River (Charles Sound) in the tenders at dawn…rainbows, waterfalls, greed hooded orchids, reflections and the rain had stopped.
After raising the Crayfish Pot and hauling in 4 keepers, we moved on to Caswell Sound for light lunch (frittata & salad) with a visit from Dusky Dolphins…
Then out to the Tasman Sea again… Big waves, whales (off Hourglass Bay), Petrel, Sheerwater, Penguin rafts (heading south), Mollymawk and Black Backed Gulls trying to get in the picture.
Fishing for Blue Cod (largely unsuccessfully) in George sound. Bottle nose dolphins, waterfalls… terakihi sushimi entrée and Thar for dinner with Birthday Cake for Colin… Spending the night moored outside the Doc hut in George Sound… ‘Twas a big day… more adventures tomorrow!
6th Dec George Sound – Poison Bay
After the revelry the night before, the group members meandered for brekky under fluffy clouds and blue sky. Some hopped into kayaks and disappeared in different directions while others took to the IRBs to explore the end of George Sound surrounded by awesome mountains, sheer cliffs and waterfalls. After tiki touring around the sound we headed west, stopped and had one of ‘Flightless’s’ great lunches before heading to Bligh Sound (not named after Ct Bligh!!), past Sutherland Sound and onto Poison Bay where it was calm enough to anchor for the night. Parties went ashore to explore before our final dinner of crayfish and venison, delicious!!
7th December Day eight, our last day on Flightless
Departing Poison Bay at 5.30 in the morning gave us ample time to explore Milford sound before the racket of tourist boats, planes and helicopters interfered with our perceived private viewing of this magnificent fiord. Entering Milford Sound from the heads gave us an alternative view of Mitre Peak-the backside. Sheer rock walls, waterfalls, mixed forest with patches of red Rata and snow-capped mountains in the distant valleys were the most significant features of this Sound. It is steep, huge and stunning.
I know that the twelve NPSNZ club members who joined Pure Salt for this Northern Fiordland expedition/field trip appreciated every aspect and attention the crew gave us to make this a truly memorable week. Special thanks also go to Kath for organising this epic trip.
